Assess Area For Bump-Out
Ideally, one should limit the bump-out addition to only one room to avoid additional structural concerns. Ground-level bump-outs will be less costly and more accessible to build than upper-level bump-outs. Ground-level bump-out foundations can rest on the ground, or they can be cantilevered. Upper-level bump-outs require extra support from below the bump-out, or they may be capable of being cantilevered. Cantilevering will limit the depth of the bump-out to two or three feet.
Develop Bump-Out Addition Plans
Be sure to evaluate how the house will open into the bump-out. Existing doors and windows adjoining the planned bump-out have headers that may be utilised to open onto the new area once it’s finished. But most homeowners want a large space, often one that’s the whole width of the bump-out. This involves adding a support beam, presumably laminated LVL lumber, to span the whole distance and more vertical supports on the sides.
Apply For Permits
Building permits are mandated for any work that opens up the side of the house or adds to the home. Other licenses may be needed for electrical and plumbing work.
Install Temporary Support Wall
Inside, build a temporary wall of studs near the outer wall. This wall will sustain the ceiling, walls, and upper floors when removing sections of the existing exterior wall.
Create Foundation
It would be best to build footers and a foundation wall for bump-out additions that rest on the floor. Soil is dug out by hand or with a small excavator. The local building code dictates the depth, often to a level below the frost line, sometimes as deep as 36 to 42 inches. The foundation wall will be constructed either from concrete blocks or poured concrete. The blocks are piled and mortared into position. Poured concrete requires wooden forms first to be created. Next, the concrete is poured by a mixer into the forms.
Cantilever Flooring (Optional)
Bump-out additions on upper levels—and even some tiny ground-level bump-outs—can be cantilevered out from the side of the house. However, cantilevers usually cannot extend very far: only a few feet. The dimensions of the joists are one factor that defines a cantilevered bump-out’s depth—that is, how far out from the house the bump-out can extend.
Open Wall
After shut down electrical circuits, remove drywall and exterior siding, exposing the studs. Temporary plywood sheets may be fitted from the outside to cover up the opening at the end of each workday.
Move or Remove Wires and Plumbing
Electrical wires that run through outer walls must be cut and re-routed. In addition, plumbing for kitchen or bathroom sinks, showers, or baths must be stubbed out.
Create Header
With the wall removed, a header of LVL laminated wood or doubled-up two-by-eights should be installed in place of the wall.
Build Walls and Subfloor
Stud walls with windows should be built to the specified height. Unfortunately, many bump-out additions’ ceilings stay lower than the ceilings of the attached house due to the width of the header. So first, joists are added, then a subfloor of 3/4-inch tongue-and-groove plywood is screwed on top of the posts.
Build Roof
Many bump-out additions are small enough to be built with a lean-to-style roof. This roof begins more elevated than the opening to the house then slopes down in one direction toward the exterior.
Add Siding, Drywall, and Insulation
After sheathing and siding are added, the walls are protected with spray foam or fiberglass. Drywall is then installed over the insulation. After the drywall is completed, it is primed and painted.
Add Finishing Touches
Floor shielding such as tile or resilient flooring is installed if this is a bathroom bump-out expansion. A more comprehensive range of flooring can be used for kitchens, from durable materials like tile and vinyl flooring to DIY-friendly laminate flooring or premium engineered hardwood flooring.
Ideally, one should limit the bump-out addition to only one room to avoid additional structural concerns. Ground-level bump-outs will be less costly and more accessible to build than upper-level bump-outs. Ground-level bump-out foundations can rest on the ground, or they can be cantilevered. Upper-level bump-outs require extra support from below the bump-out, or they may be capable of being cantilevered. Cantilevering will limit the depth of the bump-out to two or three feet.
Develop Bump-Out Addition Plans
Be sure to evaluate how the house will open into the bump-out. Existing doors and windows adjoining the planned bump-out have headers that may be utilised to open onto the new area once it’s finished. But most homeowners want a large space, often one that’s the whole width of the bump-out. This involves adding a support beam, presumably laminated LVL lumber, to span the whole distance and more vertical supports on the sides.
Apply For Permits
Building permits are mandated for any work that opens up the side of the house or adds to the home. Other licenses may be needed for electrical and plumbing work.
Install Temporary Support Wall
Inside, build a temporary wall of studs near the outer wall. This wall will sustain the ceiling, walls, and upper floors when removing sections of the existing exterior wall.
Create Foundation
It would be best to build footers and a foundation wall for bump-out additions that rest on the floor. Soil is dug out by hand or with a small excavator. The local building code dictates the depth, often to a level below the frost line, sometimes as deep as 36 to 42 inches. The foundation wall will be constructed either from concrete blocks or poured concrete. The blocks are piled and mortared into position. Poured concrete requires wooden forms first to be created. Next, the concrete is poured by a mixer into the forms.
Cantilever Flooring (Optional)
Bump-out additions on upper levels—and even some tiny ground-level bump-outs—can be cantilevered out from the side of the house. However, cantilevers usually cannot extend very far: only a few feet. The dimensions of the joists are one factor that defines a cantilevered bump-out’s depth—that is, how far out from the house the bump-out can extend.
Open Wall
After shut down electrical circuits, remove drywall and exterior siding, exposing the studs. Temporary plywood sheets may be fitted from the outside to cover up the opening at the end of each workday.
Move or Remove Wires and Plumbing
Electrical wires that run through outer walls must be cut and re-routed. In addition, plumbing for kitchen or bathroom sinks, showers, or baths must be stubbed out.
Create Header
With the wall removed, a header of LVL laminated wood or doubled-up two-by-eights should be installed in place of the wall.
Build Walls and Subfloor
Stud walls with windows should be built to the specified height. Unfortunately, many bump-out additions’ ceilings stay lower than the ceilings of the attached house due to the width of the header. So first, joists are added, then a subfloor of 3/4-inch tongue-and-groove plywood is screwed on top of the posts.
Build Roof
Many bump-out additions are small enough to be built with a lean-to-style roof. This roof begins more elevated than the opening to the house then slopes down in one direction toward the exterior.
Add Siding, Drywall, and Insulation
After sheathing and siding are added, the walls are protected with spray foam or fiberglass. Drywall is then installed over the insulation. After the drywall is completed, it is primed and painted.
Add Finishing Touches
Floor shielding such as tile or resilient flooring is installed if this is a bathroom bump-out expansion. A more comprehensive range of flooring can be used for kitchens, from durable materials like tile and vinyl flooring to DIY-friendly laminate flooring or premium engineered hardwood flooring.
